New Zealand's South Island, with its young soils and temperate climate, became an unexpected player during wartime Britain. A short-lived industry was established but peeterd out as war came to an end and international markets could procure flax locally again.

As we embark on a journey to grow linen at the BHU in Lincoln this summer season, we look forward to sharing the progress of this historical revival.

The Linen Connection: New Zealand and Britain

In the early 1940s, Britain was gripped by the chaos of World War II, and the need for textile resources was acute. Linen, with its versatile properties, emerged as a vital component for the war effort. It was essential for producing clothing, bandages, and various other military equipment. Yet, sourcing linen proved to be a logistical challenge for Britain.

New Zealand's Contribution

Amid this tumultuous era, New Zealand's South Island became an unlikely linchpin in the linen supply chain. The region's climate and fertile soil provided an ideal environment for growing flax, the plant from which linen is derived. Flax cultivation became a crucial part of New Zealand's contribution to Britain's war effort.

From Field to Ship

Britain contracted New Zealand to plant 15,000 acres of flax for linen across Marlborough, Canterbury and Southland. We constructed mills across the regions and produced over 128,000 tons of fibre in only 6 seasons. Most of the crop pulled from our land was tank retted, a process which breaks down the gums releasing the fibres, then cleaned, separated and spun. We even sold the by-products of the processing, seed was the second highest value item and tow, the woody bits removed from the fibres, was sold and used to make fibrous plaster board. A truely no-waste plant!

Building an Industry

Our kiwi No8 wire abilities were strong in the 1940's. This is shown by the New Zealand Railway Department who were comissioned to reproduce the machinery required, which was undertaken at the Addington workshops, by using Belgian machinery sent by the British as templates. As you can imagine, converting metric measurements to imperial at such a scale can cause difficulties in manufacture not to mention the additional alterations required once modular machinery was set up and running.

The Fall of an Industry

Unfortunately by 1946, with the war over and the availability of European flax again, Britain no longer needed to use New Zealand as it's farm for fibre. There was an effort to retain the industry in New Zealand by the Linen Flax Management Committee however it could not compete with the importation of cheaper cottons and eventually synthetic fibres. The last flax mill in Geraldine closed in 1977.

The Sustainability of Linen

One of the most remarkable aspects of linen is its sustainability. Unlike synthetic fibers, linen requires minimal inputs while processing, reducing its environmental impact. Natural linen fabric, being biodegradable, can return safely to the soil, completing a natural and eco-friendly cycle. This eco-conscious characteristic aligns perfectly with the principles of modern sustainability and circular fashion.

Growing Linen at BHU in Lincoln

As we reflect on this historical legacy of growing linen in New Zealand for Britain's war effort, we are excited to announce our own endeavor at BHU in Lincoln. This summer season, we are reviving the tradition of linen cultivation on this fertile land. Our mission is not only to honor history but to contribute to a more sustainable future by producing linen with respect for the land and the environment, ensuring regenerative growing practices and processing that allows the textile to return safely to the soil at the end of it's life.

Conclusion

The history of growing linen in New Zealand's South Island for Britain's war effort serves as a powerful reminder of the interconnectedness of global events and the vital role played by natural resources. Today, as we embrace sustainable practices and recognize the intrinsic value of plants like flax, we can weave a more harmonious relationship between humans and the earth. With minimal processing and a commitment to responsible agriculture, linen continues to offer a sustainable, eco-conscious option for textiles. As we embark on our journey to grow linen at BHU in Lincoln, we are not only celebrating a historical legacy but also contributing to a greener and more sustainable future. We look forward to sharing our progress and the revival of this remarkable tradition.

Reference:

Linen Flax Fibre Production in New Zealand - J. W. Hadfield